Cold Spring Again!

It's early April and there is no sign that anything will be planted soon.  I have not kept close track, but we're getting 1-2 rain events per week these days, and most of them are significant.  The largest one was over 2".  Although nothing has been really flooded, it's difficult to see when I will be able to plant anything.  The greatest concern is the Spring wheat, which can go in any time after February really.  It will not be a good year for Spring wheat in all likelihood.

The winter wheat in the test plot looks good.  At this point the Stephens Turkey is actually a bit taller and greener than the Heartland or Ehmke (KC-State) Turkey.

On the left is last year's wheat and barley, which was frost seeded to clover.  The clover is strong.  Since I have never tried to terminate clover before I plan to start working it as soon as possible.  The dark chunks are compost that was applied when the ground was still frozen.  To the right is the corn ground from last year, which was seeded to Turkey Red as a substitute for a rye cover crop.  I was out of rye and I also hope that the wheat will be easier to terminate than the rye was last year.  There is also a handful of vetch in that strip.

Oats and peas, composted, and ready to grow something the minute it gets dry enough!!!

Flats in the kitchen.  I am a pretty poor grower of seedlings.  The top flat is celeriac, as usual a bloody mess well below 50% germination.  But I think I will have a few more to plant this year than last.  The lower flat is peppers that I started a few days ago.  I sprinkled the top with wheat bran, of which I have buckets.  I heard of someone using rice hulls as a substitute for vermiculite, so I figured wheat bran (hulls) could be a substitute for rice hulls.  We'll see!

Trying to start onions as a pile all sprinkled on top.  The last two years I was using 231 cell flats with one onion seed per cell.

Mystery wild allium, possibly allium canadense.  There are 3 volunteer plants in the yard, and I have eaten a couple of them.  But I'd really like them to establish so I can have more in the years to come!

March 12, almost one month ago.  At this point just a few days of sunshine would have done the trick, but it just keeps getting cold and wet.  The end of this week is forecast for 22 degree overnight low!

The Backska in the historical test plot showed some winter kill and the leaves are noticeably wider and pale in color.  This shot is also from March 12.

March 12 and the garlic is coming up real strong.

Walter Jones Update

The lab wrote me today with a quick update.  It sounds like they are just working with a few seeds to start out with:

"...the seeds swelled nicely - starting off with a few to practice on - but nothing germinated yet...No news is simply no news, not bad news, at this point!"

Seed Delivered

My sister dropped off the Walter Jones wheat seed at the lab in Madison earlier today.  There are 500 wheat seeds, which I counted out and separated from the weed seeds.  The weight is 12 grams, meaning that the TKW (thousand kernel weight) for the sample is 24 grams.  For comparison, I have some certified Turkey Red wheat with a TKW of 30 grams.  I actually feel like this is a pretty high TKW considering all the time these seeds have had to shrink.

The sample had about .5 grams of wheat seeds, which I am hoping the lab will also try to germinate.  I don't think the harvest had quite this many weed seeds in it originally.  I think the lighter weed seeds migrated to the top of the museum jar over the years, from being shaken and jostled.  At the museum I just dipped the spoon into the top without jostling or shaking up the jar at all, so my sample has more weeds seeds than the sample as a whole.

Update: Edgar informed me that the germination trial began this Thursday (Mar 24).  He is hoping that an example of every seed in the sample will germinate.  Oh man!  Could you imagine if there are sprouted seeds to look at on Easter Sunday, 2016?????

Walter Jones wheat trial

Several years ago I noticed a jar of old wheat in the collection of the Racine Heritage Museum.  The wheat came from the 1914 harvest of a local farm owned by Walter Jones.  More recently I had the idea to try growing this wheat, with an eye towards propagating it until there is enough to harvest, mill, and bake it.  So I contacted the museum and the staff very generously agreed to let me try to germinate some of the seed.

I did as much research as I could about germinating old wheat and discovered that the claims of germinating wheat from Egyptian tombs were all hoaxes.  Wheat is normally not expected to be very viable after 20-30 years.  I found mention of one study that gave me a little hope, however.  Under ideal conditions, according to this study, after 240 years you would expect to have 1 in 1000 wheat seeds viable.  Those are odds I can live with.

On March 17 I visited the museum and got my first close look at the seed.  The seed looks plump and intact.  In fact, it does not appear particularly old at all.  The smell was clean.  I removed about 20 gm of seed.

This closeup shows some smaller seeds in the sample.  There is clover seed and buckwheat seed, and several other unidentified seeds.  I hope to figure out what they are.

Edgar Spalding at the University of Wisconsin has agreed to try germinating a sample of the seed in his laboratory.  He plans to treat the seed for 24 hours in a warm bubbling solution of the hormone gibberellic acid because it promotes germination.  I will keep track of the protocol and report back on the results.  Needless to say, I am very, very excited about this project!!!

I think the clover and other small seeds in the sample could also be germinated, so I am going to ask the lab to treat these seeds as well.  Weed seeds are known to be very long lived so I think there is a pretty good chance that we can at least get some century-old weeds to grow.  It would be another window into old farming practices and the conditions that farmers faced in 1914.

Garden Survey

Although the weather is currently just slightly above normal temperatures, this Spring did get very warm very early and things have a head start.  The garlic is higher than I have ever seen it in March, and it looks very good.  The experimental onions that I planted with the garlic have not appeared yet.  I am leaving the mulch in place.

In the middle you can see the three strips of wheat from the genebank.  The one on the left is Turkey Red and it looks strong and perfect.  The middle strip is Wisconsin Pedigree No. 2.  The Bacska is a lighter color of green and shows some brown leaves, which may be winter kill.  The Bacska did not germinate all that well in the first place, which accounts for the gaps.

From the right, every three rows, is Stephen's Turkey, Heartland Turkey, and Ehmke Turkey.  The Stephens Turkey looks the strongest to me.

All the straw I am using this year makes for a fantastic mix in the compost pile.  It's been running just great lately.

Sourdough bread

Here is the bread recipe I am currently using.  I am taking elements from Thom Leaonard's The Bread Book, Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads, and whatever secrets I can trick Andrew at Madison Sourdough Company to let slip out when I talk to him.

This is a sourdough and I am having the best luck with my 92% extraction Turkey Red flour.  This extraction is an estimate and I have variously labeled it as 90%, 92%, or 94%.  It's all the same thing--stone ground and sifted with a 630 micron screen.  I always make enough for a loaf of bread and a few pizzas.  On baking day, after bulk fermentation, I divide the dough, put 1/2 of it into a proofing basket, and the other half gets made into pizzas.  I eat one pizza and freeze the rest.  When I am done making pizzas, it's just about time for the bread to go into the oven.

Day 1, remove starter from the fridge, dig out the soft inside (I use a stiff starter, wrapped in a dish towel), add 1/2 cup water, and mix in enough flour to make it stiff again.  Keep at 70 degrees for the day.

In the evening, divide the starter, add more flour to the portion that will go back into the fridge, wrap it up, and put it in the fridge.  Add 1 1/4 C water to the starter that remains and dissolve the starter.  Mix in at least 3 C of flour, knead a little bit, and let sit overnight at 70 degrees.  I do all my mixing by hand.

In the morning, dissolve the entire thing in another 2 C of water, add a little less than 3 teaspoons of non-iodized salt, and mix in at least 5 C of flour.  I use so much flour straight from my mill that my volume measurements are very suspect.  Freshly ground flour is very light and airy.  I should weigh it but I never have.  The ideal bread dough is as wet as you can possibly stand it while preventing it from sticking.  I find the wet hands technique to be too much bother, so I just keep dusting in small amounts of flour to keep it from sticking.  Also, you need to keep the dough in motion while it's on the counter.

Immediately retard the dough after kneading.  I put mine into the root cellar, which got it down to about 55 degrees or so.  I think the fridge could be tried, too.  If possible, fold the dough once or twice over the course of the day.  We are going to wake up this dough at some point in the next 12-24 hours.  To do this, heat up a thick earthenware bowl by letting it sit in your proofing area for awhile, and use a proofing area that is ideally 75-80 degrees.  

About 2-3 hours before you want to bake, put the dough into the preheated bowl and put it in the warm proofing area.  At about the same time, you can start pre-heating the oven.  At home I have an ordinary gas oven that I put 6 thin firebricks into.  This will be the baking surface for pizza and bread.

After an hour or so of re-awakened bulk fermentation, divide the dough into your pizza dough and your bread dough.  Don't punch it down or knead it.  In fact, don't ever punch the dough down when working with this kind of flour.  For your bread dough, fold it carefully a couple of times, dust it, and put into your proofing container.  I have been using a cane banneton lately, but a cloth towel in any kind of bowl also works fine.

While the bread dough is doing it's final proofing, you have time to make and eat pizza.  With this recipe I can make 3 for freezing and one for eating.  I usually work in a little more flour so that the pizza dough is a bit stiffer and drier.  Enjoy.

After no more than 90 minutes of proofing, tip the dough onto a baking peel, slice the top with a sharp, wet knife, and slide it into the oven.  The oven is as hot as you can stand it--you may need to pull the kitchen fire alarm off the wall.  You'd like to get 600 degrees in the oven, but of course most home ovens red line at 450.  So just get it as hot as you can.  I use 450 at home.

Use a spray bottle and spray the entire inside of the oven for 10-15 seconds.  Then close the oven and don't open it up again for at least 20 minutes.  After 20 minutes you can check on it. I usually go about 25 minutes.

Cool it on the rack, and enjoy!  Don't forget to put your smoke detector back on the wall and test it.  I mean, test the bread, and also test the fire alarm.

This last shot is a loaf from Madison Sourdough on top, and my loaf underneath it.  Both loaves are really quite nice, and they are both made from exactly the same wheat, from the same field and the same harvest.  I think Madison Sourdough is using 100% extraction, which gives it the darker color. (they have their own stone mill, I just sell them whole berries)  It's also a bit sharper and tangier than mine.

Putting it together

So after a little more than two weeks of work the Model 600 is up and running!  Here is how it looks in it's new home, hooked up to the bolting cabinet.

Gluing the top onto the tun (casing).  The staves actually did not stay true and the entire housing is kind of squashed, although you can't see it without a measuring tape.  I made the tun to be one-piece, meaning that the upper millstone has to slide out the bottom.  I managed a nice fit but perhaps a little too tight.  I'm not sure if the stone would come out in the middle of summer when the wood is swollen with moisture.  The upper millstone has 3 large thread inserts around the circumference, and at least 6 smaller ones on the top, in no particular pattern.  I am using bolts in all of them.

So here is what it looks like without the tun.  The game is that the upper millstone has to be perfectly supported in space so that the lower millstone can be raised up to just barely touch it, in perfect alignment.

This hopper is a bit small but I had already made it for another project so it will do for the time being.  The shoe is so-so and when I get around to building a larger hopper I will try to make a better shoe.

Belt slippage became an issue on the second run of the mill.  The runner stone would start slowing down if the grain was fed too fast.  I built the mill with two-belt pulleys because my free two hp motor came with one already on the shaft, and it seemed about right.  But running with two A-sized belts I am getting slippage.  I looked online and determined that in this circumstance a single belt can only be expected to transfer about .7 hp.  Keep in mind the rpm coming out of the gearbox is 180 rpm.  The driver pulley has an A pitch diameter of 4.4 and a B pitch diameter of 4.8.  The pulley on the spindle is a 5/5.4.  I might do a little better with B belts, but I think a more drastic solution is required.  So for now I just tightened the belt as much as I dared.

I don't want to tighten the belt too much because it starts messing with the stone alignment and pulling on the upper bearing, which needs to allow the spindle to slide through when the runner stone is raised and lowered.  So my long-term solution was to order some three-belts pulleys.  This was easier said than done because sheaves of this type can get expensive.  The ones I finally found were only about $40 with the bushings, but then belt size became a problem.  The new sheaves take a 5V belt, and those don't usually come in sizes less than 50" (my ideal is a 41" belt in this space).  Anyway, I finally found some 45" 5V belts online and I think there is just enough room underneath to slide the power unit over and tighten the belts.  

There is a lot of hemming and hawing in this area.  Large sheaves can get expensive--several hundred dollars is quite common.  The next mill I build will probably not have a gearbox, so reduction will have to be by belt.  The European mills using a 600 mm stone run the stones at 480 rpm, which would take a more than 3:1 reduction with the belt drive.  Furthermore, to get enough torque at that rpm requires a serious motor, in the 10-15 hp range.  5 hp is about the max you can expect to run off of single phase 220 v electricity, so things start to get messy and expensive.  I wanted to stay on single phase 220, and the 2 hp motor I source was really nice because it only draw 13 amps at full load.  I can use No 12 wire and a 20 amp light switch to control it, but any bigger and I will need a special motor start switch.  I wanted to keep this project sane and simple.  

I'm really glad I took the time to weld up a good adjustable bearing base for the lower bearing.  I can really tune up the alignment quickly and accurately and get the stones singing, like they should.

Note the 3/8" rods clamping the tunning down to the table.  The lower stone will be pushing up into the fixed stone, and that stone needs to be able to counteract that force.  This is where this style of mill departs from most stone mills built prior to the 20th Century, where it was normal for the top stone to turn and the bottom to remain stationary.  In the old style, the pressure is limited to the weight of the runner stone, whereas in this style the pressure is created by the bridge tree pushing the runner stone up to the bedstone. 

I never did a budget but I think this cost me around $1500 to build.  The millstones were $1000 shipped to the airport, the gearbox $85, and I spent $75 at the machine shop.  The motor was free and a lot of the wood was also free.  There were bearings and a shaft to purchase, and two bushings that I used to make fittings with.